As food and labor costs continue to rise, profit margins are narrowing, creating a murky future for many Burien restaurants. And as they disappear, communities often lose more than just dining options.
You may have heard that Burien is a “Foodie Paradise.” This marketing slogan, which has been in place for several years, is a quick way to communicate that Burien has a plethora of restaurants serving great food from around the globe. Yes, hungry diners can find everything from elevated Italian, to niche Asian cuisines, to good ‘ol American comfort food in Burien. But many of these spots serve more than just a delicious repast, they also create communities for families, friends or associates of all kinds to gather and be present with each other.
Burien’s many eateries are spaces where you’re highly likely to bump into your kid’s teacher, a city councilmember, or the neighbor from down the block. And it’s these casual interactions that weave threads of commonality, while breaking down social barriers.
It’s easy to view restaurants strictly as commercial enterprises, but local restaurateurs rarely view their businesses that way. Burien’s restaurant owners are deeply invested in the town they call home.
Now is a great time to enjoy local dining if your budget allows. Similar to the pandemic, Burien restauranteurs with whom we spoke were open in sharing the current pressures impacting their establishments, expressing their hopes that their valued customers will show up to support not just their businesses, but the employees who depend on wages and tips. Residents may wish to visit their favorite haunts or venture out to try something new.
With so many spots to consider, here’s a glimpse at a few Burien spots known as community hubs and for their impact on our neighborhood schools, arts and service organizations.
- Azteca Mexican Restaurant was born right here in Burien. Established in 1974, it continues to be a family-run business lead by the Ramos family. They have supported mentoring programs offered by Big Picture High School along with other school fundraisers. They currently serve as a gathering place for the Rotary Club of Burien/White Center on a weekly basis. Countless families gather there for their distinctive birthday celebrations. An additional, homestyle and intimate venue from the members of the Ramos family is La Costa Mexican Restaurant. Known for their Jalisco-style comfort Mexican, La Costa is a community booster of Highline schools sports including Drill and Dance teams. Readers may recall a recent “takeover” fundraiser, where Dance and Drill members invited the public to be their guests while they acted as servers and hosts. The team raised funds to compete at nationals, where they brought home an impressive third place win to little ol’ Burien.
- Angelo’s of Burien is the meeting place for the Burien Lion’s Club and hosts cabaret night fundraisers featuring and benefiting BAT Theatre. Several local car clubs, including the Cascade Austin Healey club, call Angelo’s their home for monthly meetings. Informal groups of “regulars” meet weekly debating local politics and generally fostering connection. On any given night you may find rehearsal dinners, retirement or engagement parties or any number of celebrations in their two private rooms. Since their founding in 1957, they remain in the ownership of the Ricci family whose other local offerings include the elevated boutique bistro 909 Coffee and Wine, featuring inspired creations from Chef Frank Ricci, and The Burien Pizzeria.
- Burien’s popular diner Huckleberry Square is a bustling place filled with a real cross-section of Burien and serving our city since 1979. In current times, the atmosphere has been intentionally cultivated to foster a welcoming space for everyone across the spectrum of Burien’s diverse community, breaking down silos through a shared love of a classic cinnamon roll or signature namesake Huckleberry pie. The local owner grew up in Normandy Park with family in Seahurst. It was the fond memories of visiting the diner as a student from MarVista to Seattle Christian High School to Highline college that prompted a desire to purchase the diner and preserve its legacy in Burien. Longtime regulars (some of whom come daily!) cite the consistent quality of both service and food from the restaurant’s 37 employees. Breakfast time brings multiple groups who meet each week to discuss shared interests such as motorcycle or car enthusiasm, or pondering solutions to address the problems of the day. The business is committed to supporting CARES Animal Rescue, numerous school and community fundraisers and has supported a variety of organizations serving the unhoused in Burien, including The Burien Severe Weather Shelter, Sunnydale Village and others. Their community “meal sharing” board allows patrons to purchase vouchers for meals which can be used by those in need. The original inspiration was a schoolteacher family member, who, as a single mother didn’t get many chances to go out to eat. The board became an elegant solution to “pay it forward’ and share abundance with those who may need a little boost.
- Classic Eats, while one of the newer additions to Burien’s dining scene since opening in 2016, has spent the past decade establishing itself as a particularly diverse and welcoming community gathering spot. Owner Tony Hayes is a proud Highline High School Alum, HHS Hall of Fame inductee and Burien “Citizen of the Year” (2022), specifically recognized for his extensive charity work, including hand-delivering free meals to elderly neighbors and supporting local employees throughout the COVID-19 pandemic. Scores of fledgling staff have been mentored by Hayes’ indefatigable work ethic; it’s rare that your visit will not include a glimpse or visit of the dedicated owner. The expansive menu at Classic Eats brings a distinctive Southern flair including Shrimp and Grits, Cajun Chicken Pasta, Jambalaya and other flavorful options. Weekend brunch is a go-to bringing patrons from all over the South End to enjoy hospitality and strong customer service.
These are just a few of the local restaurants known for community involvement and a distinct place in the history of Burien’s evolving food scene. As we observe impacts of the unfolding minimum wage ordinance, it remains to be seen how vibrant “Foodie Paradise’ will remain. We hope that the casualties will be few, because the intangibles to be lost, fill a different hollow than hunger.
The next time you walk through the doors of your favorite Burien spot, take a look around before you look at the menu. Notice the laughter at the next table, the warm greeting from the staff, and the diverse cross-section of your community sharing space. We aren’t just feeding ourselves; we’re weaving the fabric of Burien together.
